Long, Hard Journey: From the Pen Of Frank Lloyd Wright to Hawaii
By BRETT CAMPBELL
April 19, 2007; Wall Street Journal: Page D8

This clubhouse was based on a design for a home Frank
Lloyd Wright was going to build for Marilyn Monroe
and Arthur Miller. |
One day in 1957, Frank Lloyd Wright heard the doorbell ring at his suite in New York's
Plaza Hotel and found Marilyn Monroe standing in the doorway. She and her new bridegroom,
the playwright Arthur Miller, wanted the architect to build them a bucolic haven as
shelter from the cyclone of celebrity.
As it happened, Wright already had just the ticket: a luxury manor he'd designed eight
years earlier for a wealthy Texas couple but that never was built. Three years later,
he proposed it to a Mexican government official who'd asked for a house on the cliffs
above Acapulco -- and, again, it fizzled. Finally, for the glamorous couple, Wright
hauled out his twice-stymied plans, and added a movie theater, swimming pool and nursery
to produce a design for a 14,000-square-foot house near Roxbury, Connecticut.
But the Monroe-Miller marriage collapsed a few months later, Wright died shortly after
that, and the blueprints wound up in an archive at Taliesin West, Wright's Arizona winter
retreat and school. Eventually, however, Wright's creation did get built -- on the Hawaiian
island of Maui. And it has just been reincarnated as a home for Hawaiian art as well
as golf.
In 1986, Tonia Baney, a portrait artist who'd co-founded a Maui advertising agency,
was having lunch with a Honolulu ad agency owner, Sandy Sims, and the conversation turned
to a shared passion: the architecture of Frank Lloyd Wright. Mr. Sims had obtained a
license from the Frank Lloyd Wright Foundation to construct a collection of unbuilt
Wright designs on the big island of Hawaii. "Why not build them on Maui?"
Ms. Baney said.
A distant relative of Wright's who'd grown up near his Wisconsin hometown, she had
been involved in the island's arts scene for years, including the creation of the Maui
Arts and Cultural Center. Its major patron was Masaru "Pundy" Yokouchi, a
baker-turned-realtor whose investing in commercial property brought him an immense fortune
and political clout. Yokouchi, who died last November at age 81, chaired the state arts
and culture foundation for a dozen years and headed other arts and business groups.
Ms. Baney asked him if he knew anyone who might be interested in bringing an unbuilt
Wright creation to Maui.
Of course he did. The Japanese had a special fondness for Wright's work, which was
heavily influenced by Asian art and architecture. (His celebrated Imperial Hotel was
the only major building to survive the big Tokyo quake of 1923; alas, it was demolished
in 1968.) Yokouchi was a partner with some Japanese investors who were scouting Maui
for a golf property. They flew to Taliesin West to see what drawings might be suitable.
Taliesin's John Rattenbury suggested the Miller-Monroe manse, and a deal was soon struck.
But obstacles loomed. The golf club would need five times more space than the original
plan provided. And how could a building first designed for the Texas prairie, then the
Mexican coast, and finally rural Connecticut fit a Hawaiian mountainside?
Mr. Rattenbury, the architect of record, solved the first problem by placing two-thirds
of the 75,000-square-foot structure underground, while preserving Wright's original
proportions above. And the desert-rose-painted concrete building's graceful curves somehow
nestle comfortably amid the rolling fairways and against the scalloped mountainous backdrop.
Granted a bottomless budget and a mandate for authenticity, Mr. Rattenbury brought
in craftsmen with experience in Wright projects. He also designed the interior adornments,
including art glass features, incorporating Wright's abstract geometric patterns. The
4,300-square-foot main dining room offers a 270-degree view and is capped by a 100-foot
dome with a 25-foot skylight. The curving interior walls, wide porthole windows and
other details contribute to the soft, organic feeling throughout, and the clubhouse
evokes the simultaneous sensation of spaciousness and intimacy that characterizes Wright's
best work.
After the original investors spent more than $100 million to develop the clubhouse
and two golf courses, the club opened in May 1993. Its $35 million clubhouse boasted
an expansive pro shop, banquet meeting rooms, and, in the men's locker room, a Japanese
furo bath with soaking pool and seated showers. Offering spectacular views of Ho'okipa
Bay on the left and Ma'aleaea Bay to the right, and facing the Haleakela volcano that
dominates the horizon, the club seemed to have at last fulfilled Wright's vision.
But Japan's economic slide quickly took its toll. The original owners sold the country
club six months after it opened, and the course closed in 1999.
Enter another Tokyo tycoon -- golf lover and part-time Maui resident Makoto Kaneko.
Every time he'd fly over the defunct 150-acre course and country club, the engineering
magnate fumed; what a shame to let such a beautiful place lie fallow. In 2004, Mr. Kaneko's
MMK Maui company bought the property for $12.5 million and embarked on a $40 million
overhaul of the clubhouse and courses. He also renamed the club after King Kamehameha,
who united the islands in the mid-1700s.
Mr. Kaneko insisted that he wanted to honor traditional Hawaiian culture, but attaching
the name of one of Hawaii's most venerated monarchs to an enclave mostly used by wealthy
white and Japanese golfers infuriated many native Hawaiians. "I applaud his desire
to honor Kamehameha, but in traditional culture we do not put our names on buildings.
That's another culture's concept imposed upon the native Hawaiian culture," says
Hokulani Holt-Padilla, cultural programs director at the MACC. Moreover, Kamehameha
wasn't from Maui, which he conquered in his campaign to rule all of Hawaii.
To ensure cultural authenticity, Mr. Kaneko's company hired Clifford Nae'ole as a cultural
liaison. One of Mr. Nae'ole's ancestors had saved the infant Kamehameha from assassination,
and Mr. Nae'ole assured concerned native Hawaiians that he would likewise protect the
king's legacy.
Mr. Nae'ole says that Mr. Kaneko displayed deep respect for Hawaiian traditions. First,
he created an ahu, an altar at the crossroads between the two courses visible to everyone
who drives up to the courthouse. Native Hawaiians can use it as a place to honor their
ancestors and practice their religion. The club's managers participated in its blessing
ceremony, drinking kava made from coconuts grown in a sacred part of Maui, and pledging
to respect and honor all things Hawaiian. Mr. Nae'ole also devised a course in Hawaiian
culture and history for all employees.
"He was able to bring a level of Hawaiian culture to the golf course, and that's
good," Ms. Holt-Padilla says. "But that doesn't absolve them of the presumptuousness
of taking the chief's name." She's happier that the new owners commissioned work
from some of Hawaii's finest artists. Except for Ms. Baney's striking portrait of Wright,
which now sits above the main staircase, the club's previous incarnation was distinguished
by lots of photos of Monroe.
Now, the entry gallery is dominated by painter Herb Kawainnui Kane's colorful 15-by-7
foot mural depicting a gathering of Maui's legendary chiefs, resplendent in red and
gold feather capes; a multicolored feathered cape by Jo-Anne Kahanamoku Sterling hangs
nearby. Dale Zerrella sculpted three koa wood and two bronze statues, including a figure
of a traditional healer surrounded by Hawaiian medicinal plants. Fiber artist Puani
van Dorpe created a series of exquisite mulberry-paper baby blankets; her interpretations
were based on patterns specific to each of the king's 10 predecessors, much like a Scottish
tartan. Framed in native koa wood, the kapa moe are accompanied by a genealogy chart
and explanation of each chief's historical significance.
Outside, a yellow traffic sign depicting a mama bird and goslings cautions drivers
to yield to Nene geese (Hawaii's state bird). A rock garden features boulders arranged
to resemble the Hawaiian islands seen from the air. A spiral outdoor staircase surmounts
a water feature with four descending streams merging into a fountain, representing the
four valleys the area is named after, and their unification by the club's namesake.
Mr. Kaneko dropped the price of memberships to a little over a tenth of the $250,000
the previous owners charged, hoping to attract as many locals as second-homers; Alice
Cooper and Dennis Hopper visited during my tour. Mr. Nae'ole says that he intends to
conduct cultural programs for the public. The clubhouse's main level is available to
the public for weddings, meetings and banquets, and the club's director of golf operations
and memberships, Rick Castillo, says the club may host scheduled tours when demand warrants;
he's already explained Wright's legacy and Hawaiian art and culture to a group of schoolchildren
and their parents.
"They have a national treasure there, and it's in a dream setting," Taliesen's
Mr. Rattenbury says. "It would be wonderful if they can make it available to anyone
who wants to see it."
Mr. Campbell is a writer and critic in Portland, Oregon.
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